The Commodore | A Bartolotta Restaurant
Written by Dave Fidlin
Photos Courtesy of The Bartolotta Restaurant
It has elegance, but is inviting. It has a European touch to it, yet is unabashedly Midwestern. There is a modern-day sophistication throughout, yet history is recognized, respected, and appreciated.
Veteran Milwaukee-area restaurateur Paul Bartolotta and his team put meticulous thought into the most granular of details as a legendary Lake Country property along Nagawicka Lake in Waukesha County enters the latest chapter in its storied history.
The Commodore – A Bartolotta Restaurant opened its doors last year for a limited portion of its full menu of offerings, which includes fine dining, special events, a bar/lounge area, and the soon-to-be-unveiled members-only Club 1902.
“We view ourselves as custodians of this iconic property,” Bartolotta said. “We try to live in the moment, but everything has a long horizon.”
Bartolotta said 15 different establishments have been a part of the property since the early 1900s before his company acquired the site several years ago to open a namesake restaurant, bar and event space.
The Seven Seas restaurant was the previous long-time occupant, having operated at the site for four decades. In its earliest days, in 1902, the site was home to the Pleasant View Hotel and Resort. The lake then — just as now — was a focal point of the different establishments.
Bartolotta said the same degree of care and craftsmanship that went into transforming the building and property went into the menu.
“Many of the items we have on our menu go back to a bygone era,” Bartolotta said. “We wanted to put different offerings on the menu that were a nod to family.”
A small sampling of some of the “bygone era” dishes Bartolotta speaks of includes the Filet Oscar, which is a prime filet that first was developed in the late 1800s and named in honor of King Oscar of Sweden.
Family-inspired dishes include Beverly’s Curried Shrimp and Crab Bisque, which is a recipe Bartolotta’s mother created. Jeanette’s New York Cheesecake, a delectable concoction straight from the recipe files of Bartolotta’s mother-in-law, is a part of the dessert menu.
The full menu includes daily specials, an array of soups and salads, artisanal cheeses, specialties such as beef Wellington, surf and turf, steaks and chops, among other items. The Commodore – A Bartolotta Restaurant also offers a full array of drinks and a specially tailored bar menu.
While Bartolotta was a mastermind behind many of the intricate details for his namesake establishment, he is quick to credit the team of professionals and dedicated service workers who aim to provide a top-notch experience.
Jesse Kloskey is the Executive Chef of The Commodore – A Bartolotta Restaurant. A seasoned chef, Kloskey’s resume includes two decades of leading culinary kitchens in Wisconsin, Northern California and out east. One of his previous roles was culinary director of the luxury Chatwal Lodge in White Lake, New York.
Other team leaders include, but are not limited to, Christian Damiano as Director of Fine Dining, Dennis Day as Restaurant Manager, Julie Gerber as Director of Catering and Club Operations, Annelise Linton as Pastry Chef, and Olga Ludena as Banquet Manager.
The history of the property is intertwined throughout the different components of The Commodore – A Bartolotta Restaurant. One example: A room, the Baldwin Lounge, is named in honor of Dave Baldwin, who was the owner of the Heritage on the Lake and Spirit of ’76 Resort and Disco that operated on the property in the 1970s.
“It’s all connected to legacy and history,” Bartolotta said. “It’s a bridge from the past, to today, and the future.”
The process of transforming the dormant building and adjoining the property admittedly took longer than anticipated, Bartolotta concedes, but as he reflects on the transformation — and the realization of a vision he had — any unexpected hiccups along the way, he said, were well worth it.
“It turned out to be quite a labor of love,” Bartolotta said. “We spent a lot of time on the smallest of details.”
The Commodore – A Bartolotta Restaurant joins seven other fine dining establishments within the company. Bartolotta co-founded the company in 1993 with his brother, the late Joe Bartolotta. Regardless of the property, the company’s mantra is to run establishments with quality food and plenty of love — a nod to the Bartolotta family’s home environment in Wauwatosa.
Whether someone is opening the doors to The Commodore – A Bartolotta Restaurant for a meal, social experience at the bar or a special event, Bartolotta said his goal is a welcoming experience, where someone feels right at home.
The warm Midwestern hospitality is a key ingredient to The Commodore – A Bartolotta Restaurant. Bartolotta, who describes the Midwest as a “hidden jewel, said this is a part of his overall mission of showcasing all that the Milwaukee metropolitan area — and Wisconsin as a whole — has for people looking to visit or live.
“I think the world is taking notice of what we’re doing here,” Bartolotta said. “I’d like to think we’ve had a small part in that.”
